Smoking and Cigarettes in Japan

Tobacco History in Japan
It is said that tobacco was first brought to Japan from Spain in Azuchi-Momoyama era (1568 - 1603). Thereafter, cigarette was monopolized by government enterprise, Japan Monopoly Enterprise, and accounted for significant share of tax revenue until 1985 when Japan Monopoly Enterprise was privatized to Japan Tobacco (JT, in short). In 1987, tariff on imported tobacco was lifted.
Despite the fact Japan Tobacco, the former cigarette monopoly, is a private company, Ministry of Finance is the major stockholder and it's the only cigarette manufacturer in Japan. 

Relative Links:
Japan Tobacco (English)
Tobacco and Salt Museum (English) 

Non-smoking and Separation of Smoking Areas
Although, Japan has high smoking rate among developed country in the world movements to restrict smoking and separation of smoking areas became active since the beginning of 2000's.

At Restaurants
It is difficult to find a restaurant where they ban on smoking rather than a restaurant where you can smoke. However, many restaurants are beginning to separate non-smoking area and smoking area. You can either tell them when you book or at your visit. 

At Accommodations
Smoke-free rooms are increasing at hotels or recently-opened Japanese Inns, so if you prefer a room without a smell of an ashtray, one way is to make a request when you book. Although at old accommodations or cheep inns, they usually don't have smoke-free rooms. In that case, you would want to negotiate with the clerk to change the room without a cigarette odor.
Be careful smokers, smoking areas are separated at many of the hotel lobbies. 

On transportation
[Train]
Basically, on most of the public transportation in Japan, smoking is prohibited and for smokers, there are 'smoking areas' at most of the stations. On long journeys such as by shinkansen (super express) or express train, smoking and non-smoking cars are separated. Request smoking or no-smoking when you purchase express ticket.
Be careful not to smoke at non-smoking areas. 

[Taxi]
It differs by prefectures, however smoke-free taxi is increasing and in Tokyo, nearly all the taxis has become non-smoking since January 2008. 

[Airplane]
Smoking is restricted on domestic flights.
Only acceptable place to smoke is at smoking areas in the airport. 

Outside
Following municipalities in Tokyo bans smoking on the street.
Akihabara (Chiyoda ward), Shinagawa (Shinagawa ward), Shinjuku (Shinjuku ward) and Nakano (Nakano ward), etc.
You may be subjected to penalties and fine if you violate the law. 

Purchase of Cigarettes
Cigarettes are available at convenient stores, tobacco monopoly stores, station kiosk and vending machine. 

How to Purchase at Cigarette Vending Machines
Currently, cigarettes are sold in more than 600 thousand vending machines in Japan which is available for everyone including minors. In an effort of preventing underage smoking, cigarette vending machines are shutdown from 11pm to 5am. In 2008, all the cigarette vending machines will be replaced to a new system which will require an ID card called 'taspo' to verify purchasers’ age. So visitors to Japan will need to purchase cigarettes somewhere besides vending machine. 

Relative Link:
What is taspo? (English)

What to say when you smoke
Even though nobody is smoking at smoking areas, it is polite to ask if you can smoke.
Just ask 'Tobacco OK?'
In addition, 'ashtray' is 'HAI-ZARA (ash tray)' in Japanese. Might be　helpful to remember if you are a smoker. 

Smoking and purchasing of cigarettes under age 20 is illegal in Japan.
(March, 2008)